Question 1: How long will this wood finish last?  Exposure to sun, elevation, current state of wood, adverse conditions  (hail ,snow) all will play a part in determining longevity.  In addition the wood needs to be properly prepped before any finish is applied (Cleaned, brightened, sanded) to help in longevity.   In general  the south and west side of wood siding  and logs should look at having maintenance done every 3 - 4 years. North and east sides every 4 - 6 years.  Deck floors every 1 - 2 years for maintenance, rails every 2 - 3 years.  I find that every time I add a maintenance coat, I'm able to take a longer interval before next maintenance.   It behooves you to keep on a maintenance schedule because the cost is considerably less for maintenance than doing a full restoration (removing a failed finish due to neglect).

Question 2: Are waterbased products better than oil based?  In my experience the water based products are more of a surface coating, than a penatrating finish, thus they do not hydrate the wood like oils, and they tend to chip or peel off making a re-application a tough assignment on bare spots.  We live in a very dry climate, for proper protection a wood's finish should be in the wood, not simply on the wood. If the EPA decides to ban oil based products that include solvents, Wood Iron has developed a water-borne product that is the same oils  emmulsified with water instead of mineral spirits and  is compatible with the existing oil finishes.   Environmentally correct isn't, necessarily, what works or lasts.  Oils last longer and require less maintenance, replacement, and expense then a  water-based product.  The main ingredient  in the product I use is linseed oil made from the natural oils of flax plant seeds, and tung oil from the nuts of a tung tree.

Question 3: Will your products harm vegatation?   I'm careful to only use products that are enviromentally friendly, no homemade concocsions or bleaches.  If I'm using a stronger  soap for restorations, I will pre-wet or tarp vegatation.

Question 4: What about corn cobb blasting?   Corn cobb blasting is a last resort, and I only use to remove multiple coats of paint on older structures. This process is costly, messy, it felts and degrades the wood.  If each timber is not thouroughly sanded after blasting, that felting will haunt in the future.   Most over the counter finishes can be removed with a good wood soap, or gel, water, and a proffesional power washer.  The trick to washing is to let the soap do the work of removing the old finish, so you don't have to aggresively blast the wood with anything. . 

Question 5: How long will it take you?  In general  5 - 7 days on house contracts and  2 - 3 days on decks.  I pride myself on being on schedule, and with the exemption of bad weather, I seldom have to re-schedule.   I do not move onto another project until I'm done with the current one at hand. 

Question 6:  By you washing my wood will that promote mold growth if water penatrates the structure?   Presuming your home is weathertight, water will not enter and special care is given to windows and doors.  An opinion to your structure being weatherproof will be given at my visit.   Because we are blessed with an airid climate, mold and fungus are not commonly found inside structures.  It can be found on the exterior shaded surfaces at ground level due to unsealed wood and rain-off or snow build up.  The exterior finish I use has mold & fungus inhibitors to prevent  growth underneath the finish.

Question 7:  Why do you require half payment at start?  With me showing up as scheduled prepared to start your job along with a previous bid interview shows I'm committed, and I only ask the same from my clients.  On larger projects I am comfortable in material cost only which can be shipped directly to the job site.